Raised Glass

Raised Glass

Archive for My Soapbox

Farewell to a Gentleman Critic

Six and a half years ago, for my 30th birthday, my parents gave me my first wine cellar.  Shortly after that, a client gave me a 6 pack of a wine I had never heard of – Yarden 2001 Single Vineyard El Rom Cabernet Sauvignon.  In order to find out just what I now had in my possession, I logged in to a wine forum I had recently joined, and asked the host, a critic named Daniel Rogov, if he had tasted the wine.  Daniel quickly responded with his tasting notes, and some pleasant commentary.  Over the next few years I continued to participate in Daniel’s forum, both at its original location and where it currently exists.  I check into the forum daily, although I only post once or twice a week.  I met several friends through that forum,  enjoyed a number of exchanges with Daniel – some on the public side of the forum and some through private messaging, and was fortunate enough to gain access to some very good deals as well (like the Gan Eden Winery liquidation sale – I ordered 50 cases of wine on behalf of myself and friends). 

Daniel was always a pleasure to communicate with – tolerant, intelligent, knowledgeable, and balanced.  I found it fascinating that he could write with equal eloquence about the highest level of gourmet cooking and the simplest country fare.  He showed equal enthusiasm when describing the finest of wines and the fiery roughness of farmstand grappa. 

Recently, Daniel’s forum posts began making vague references to serious health problems.  He never clarified exactly what was going on, but he hinted strongly that he was facing something terminal.  He announced on the forum that a testimonial dinner had been arranged in his honor and extended an invitation to forum members to attend.  When a forum member posted a link to a video from the event, I watched a few minutes, and was distressed to note that Daniel’s body displayed the wasted, ravaged look of someone in advanced stages of cancer.  Three days after the video was posted, Daniel died.

Daniel was a unique character.  A self-styled curmudgeon, he adhered strictly to classical definitions of many things (i.e. wine is made from grapes and grapes alone - fermented pomegranate juice does not make pomegranate wine).  He was the greatest champion of the Israeli wine industry, and was famous for adamantly insisting that there is no contradiction between kosher and quality in wine.  Over the years, I grew to like and respect him.  Based on things that have come to light since his death, I have gained greater respect for him.  He wrote his own obituary/farewell letter to be posted on the forum on his death, in which he admitted that he knew what was happening to him but chose to focus instead on everyday pleasures and the remaining joie de vive.  Many of the members of Rogov’s Place, myself included, feel like we have lost a friend we never met.  You may not have ever known of his forum or communicated with him, but many of you have seen some of his notes or scores tagged to shelves under bottles of wine in your local wine shops.  The kosher wine industry has lost an individual who cannot be replaced by one person – it will take several people to fill his shoes.

Goodbye, Daniel.  I miss you already.

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Don’t spoil yourself – it gets expensive

Why do I write so much about value?  Why do I spend so much effort on finding quality whiskeys for prices as low as $20 per bottle on bourbons and $35 on scotches?

There are several answers to the questions above.  Number one, it’s kind of fun to see the looks on people’s faces when I tell them that the whiskey they are enjoying so much actually cost as little as it did (they usually guess much higher).  Number two, it helps me get much much more mileage out of my discretionay dollars – instead of buying one bottle for $80, I can get two or three bottles.  Number three, by buying more affordable bottles, I can take some of the money I save and buy something to keep in my collection for a future special occasion.  Reason number 4, however, it the big one.  If you only drink $80 whiskey, you get used to it, and a special occasion then requires something in the $120-200 range.  And if you are not careful, you’ll get dazzled by that special occasion bottle, and start drinking THAT regularly, and raise the bar into the stratosphere.  And that’s whiskey.  Wine is potentially far more expensive than whiskey, although that’s greatly dependant on how you party.

What prompted me to write this today?  On May 21st, I got together with a few friends,and after a little while the topic of discussion drifted to what whiskeys we drank over shabbos.  Three out of the four people in the conversation circle commented on how spoiled their shul is.  One of them turned to me and asked “when did whiskeys we used to consider good, like Tomintoul 16, become “feh”?  I can’t go back to that now.”  That comment worries me.  It worries me because from there it’s not that far to Glenlivet 18 being “feh”.  Let’s have a good time.  Let’s enjoy good whiskeys, wines, beers, tequilas, etc…  But let’s remain fiscally rational and responsible while we do so.

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Time to clean up the grill

in Miscellaneous, My Soapbox     

Here we are, May 15.  The unofficial start to summer, Memorial Day, is two weeks away.  That means it is time to clean the winter dust off the grill, take out the racks and scrub them down, clean the burners the drip tray and the grease collector, check the contents of your propane tank (or go out and pick up a couple large bags of charcoal briquets) and start grilling.  Memorial Day weekend is an excellent time for a large barbecue.  I’d also recommend picking half a dozen bottles of various barbecue sauces to use as marinades for steaks and chicken – I like sesame teriyaki for steaks, and honey mustard or lemon pepper for chicken.  Also, try putting some portabella mushroom caps in a ziploc bag with a bottle of inexpensive italian dressing for a few hours, and then put them fin side up on the grill on low heat for about 30 minutes – until they relax and lay flat.

As a counterpoint to the tartness of the portobella caps, I would recommend a sweeter beer like a barleywine (Blithering Idiot or Brooklyn Monster, for example).  For the steaks and chicken, give some thought to a hop-bomb for the palate cleansing effect of the bitterness.  Hop-bomb examples include Lagunitas IPA, Weyerbacher Hops Infusion, Stone Arrogant Bastard Ale, Brooklyn IPA, and Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA.  To go with dogs, sausages, and burgers a more ordinary brew like Sam Adams and Brooklyn Lager will work well.

In my opinion, the MOST crucial thing you can do before hosting a large barbecue is either make sure you hang a freshly filled tank on your grill, or have a full spare.  The last thing you want is 20 hungry guests in your backyard and no propane.  Personally, I have 2 spares.

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Clink! D–n! There goes another one!

We’ve gotten this far into discussing drinking alcohol without once touching on the topic of what glass to drink out of.  And that’s odd, because I love collecting glassware.  If we are drinking multiple beverages, I have no problems using as many as 6 glasses over the course of a meal – a red wine glass, a white wine glass, a water glass, a pint glass or beer mug, a shot glass or three, and an old-fashioned glass.  There’s just something about using specific glasses for specific items – the relationship between beverage and the style/shape of the glass adds to the experience.  For a number of years after I got into college, my father and I would buy holiday gift sets in December just to collect the glasses (I still have a few of those).  Not long after I was married, because I wanted a nicer set of wine glasses, my wife bought a beautiful set of 8 cut crystal goblets – for what we then considered the substantial sum of $10 per goblet.  Years later, as I was able to buy better wines, the gold rim of these glasses became more and more noticable, until I finally decided it was time to switch.  At that point, Target Stores started carrying a line of Riedel glassware made exclusively for Target.  I had heard many good things about Riedel glassware by then, so I decided I wanted to try out the Target line.

There’s no question that the Riedel glasses are excellent, but there are a few caveats.  The Target line started out with simple red and white wine glasses, as opposed to having a Cabernet Sauvignon glass, a Merlot glass, a Chardonnay glass, a Bordeaux glass, etc…  Just having the 4 different glasses listed above is a bit too complicated even for me, which is why the Target series appealed to me – red wine, white wine, spirits, and water are sufficient for me, especially when we get to the second major caveat on the Riedels, which would be the title of this post.  You guessed it – this past weekend we broke another one.  I think that brings the total number of broken red wine glasses to 8 so far – they are so darned fragile.

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This past weekend

Before Pesach, I discussed a wide range of wines as possibilities for drinking at the Seder, but I drew the line at discussing wines that cost upwards of $30 per bottle.  I drew this line mainly because if you are going to drink expensive wines at the Seder, they should be wines that have been cellared for a few years, and not a newly released vintage.  This past weekend, that lesson was reinforced.  Friday night, I opened the oldest bottle of regular-series Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon in my cellar – a 2003, which was in fine shape.  Shabbos morning, I attended a bar-mitzvah, at which I noticed a couple of bottles of 2006 Herzog Alexander Valley Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, and a 2005 Mony Chardonnay.  The Mony was crisp, with a nice oak presence.  The Alexander Valley was still a bit young.  Don’t get me wrong – it was drinking nicely, but I’ve been to events where the host brought well-cellared bottles instead of freshly bought bottles, and the difference is why I am already cellaring wines for my son’s bar-mitzvah 6 years from now.  Okay, maybe that’s a bit crazy, but 2-3 years is not so insane.

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Weinstock Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

To many people, it’s all fine well and good to get caught up in quality wines in the $20+ range, but as far as I am concerned, that is a luxury few of us can support in these economic times.  And that bothers me, because many wineries are putting out wines with suggested retail prices in the high 20s to low 30s.  I don’t deny that I have quite a lot of wine in the $20+ range and a respectable collection of wine even more expensive than that, but I have not lost sight of the reality that most of us are not in that range.  One of the stated goals of this blog is to raise awareness of the bargains that I find, because while I may be able to pony up the money for some of the more expensive wines on the market, I am by no means of the opinion that one should do so on a regular basis.  Far too often, when I ask people what wines they like, I hear “Chalk Hill is good” or “Have you tried Unfiltered?  I love that wine”  I’m sorry, but if I ask you what wine you like and you respond with the name of a wine in the $65-75 dollar per bottle range, you’ve got a truly bizarre sense of value.  I’ve had Chalk Hill a few times (never had Unfiltered, but never heard a bad word about it either) and it’s an excellent wine, but it’s in a price range such that it should not be listed in response to the question “what wine do you like?”

With all that ranting about the price levels of wines done with, this past weekend my wife and I opened a bottle of Weinstock 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon.  Not the Cellar Select, mind you, but the plain-Jane regular Weinstock Cabernet.  I specifically bought this bottle recently because I enjoyed Weinstock wines fairly regularly when I was a student 15 years ago.  I paid less than $10 for the bottle, and I was not disappointed by the wine in the bottle – a pleasant Cabernet Sauvignon that is completely appropriate for ordinary occasions.

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Purim is coming – a few words of caution

in My Soapbox     

A couple of weeks ago, a neighbor asked me if I would serve as bouncer at his annual Purim evening party.  I declined for several reasons.  First, I plan on getting together with some friends at another party.  Second, I plan to go to bed at a reasonable hour, because on Purim morning I get up early and get most of my Mishloach Manot deliveries done before 11 AM.  Third and final, a few months ago the same neighbor held a shalom zachar in his home, and I got assigned the task of keeping 2 at-risk teens from getting out of hand.  These 2 kids wanted little more than to get vomiting drunk.  Stopping them was difficult, and my efforts were countered by inattentive individuals (one dimwitted “terminal alimentary orifice” allowed one of these kids to get his hands on a solid 6 ounces of bourbon and then tried to tell me it was soda).  Eventually, I had to get very nasty and insulting with one of the kids in order to upset him enough to get him to leave (he attempted to leave with a bottle of bourbon, but I saw him).  I have no interest in going through that again.

We all know that on Purim one is “supposed to drink until he does not know the difference …”  Many will tell you that one should drink wine, which makes it more difficult but not impossible to wind up “blotto.”  I’m the last one who will suggest a ‘dry’ Purim, but seriously speaking, I am very glad that there is far less drinking than there was 10-20 years ago.  It’s very difficult to adequately control drinking on Purim – people go house to house, and many hosts offer something in the spirit of the day.  Obviously, nobody driving should drink – even if they keep it low enough to remain under the legal BAC (Blood Alcohol Content) limits.  Personally, I get my driving around done early in the day and then once I am down to the deliveries that are done on foot on my block I will open up some wine and maybe have a shot or two with some neighbors.

There’s another common practice that I’m going to speak out against.  Groups of kids/young men get together and roam around on Purim night, ostensibly collecting charity.  Thankfully, the out-of-control drinking has been largely curtailed.  My problem is that the generally happy and slightly silly atmosphere of Purim is used as an excuse to behave like jerks.  I make no apologies for the opinion that raising money is no excuse for making loads of noise in the street at all hours of the night.  Please do go ahead and raise as much money as you can for charity – but behave like civilized respectful human beings while you are at it.

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