Raised Glass

Raised Glass

Archive for Bourbon Reviews and News

Finger Lakes Distilling

During the summer, my parents went on vacation in the Finger Lakes region of New York State.  While they were upstate, they visited several wineries (I got a souvenir 6-bottle tote bag from Pompous Ass Winery), some of which have breweries and/or distilleries in their facilities.  I’ve already mentioned one of the beers they brought back, now it is time to discuss the distilled spirits.

Apparently, Watkins Glen has more to it than automotive racing.   There’s an absolutely stunning state park, and bonus – a pretty good distillery.  My dad brought back three of their products – McKenzie Bourbon, McKenzie Rye, and Glen Thunder Corn Whiskey.

Where to start with these?  I guess I’ll start with the youngest first – Glen Thunder Corn Whiskey.  It’s unaged, which sometimes makes for a very rough spirit.  Not so in this case.  Don’t get me wrong – this is not a mellow and smooth, but it is not raw and fiery.  My preferred descriptors are young and vibrant.  The production process on this really brings the corn through into the final product.  The last new make product I had that was this well executed was Heaven Hill’s Newmake Rye, and I have to say that I really like new make spirits that allow the grain bill to come through into the final product.

McKenzie Rye and McKenzie Bourbon – I found both of these fascinating and exciting.  Both carry a broad variety of flavors, with the rye exhibiting the classic dry spiciness expected from rye whiskey while the bourbon carries the sweeter vanilla oak profile expected from it.

Now the best news of all.  Far too often, micro distilleries are lacking in distribution, and with regard to New York City, there are sometimes additional roadblocks (years ago, there was a bourbon called Thedford which had distribution throughout New York State, but not in New York City).  Thankfully, there are a number of retailers around Manhattan that carry the whiskeys from Finger Lakes Distilling – most notable among them being Astor Wines and Spirits – so named for the decades they spent at the corner of Astor Place and Lafayette.  That placed them across the street from where I attended college, but in the years since they have moved south along Lafayette, and a Walgreens took over their old location.

Look for these whiskeys – they are worth the money.

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Kirkland Bourbon

I would be seriously remiss if I did not address something I mentioned only briefly in my last post.  That something is Kirkland Bourbon.  You may remember that I am a big fan of Kirkland Tequila, which sells at roughly $20 for a liter of anejo which also happens to be certified kosher.  Well, a few weeks ago I was talking to my father and he mentioned seeing an article in which Kirkland Bourbon got very positive reviews, and I mentioned that it could be found in New Jersey but not in New York.  He responded by asking when we were going to make a trip to New Jersey, and I mentioned that I have some friends who make sure to pick up the tequila when they are in Jersey, and that I would ask one of them to get me a bottle of the bourbon next time they were going to Jersey.  But when a friend called me from Chicago saying “I am in Costco and they have a ton of liquor here” I seized the opportunity and told him to get me 2 bottles of the bourbon, and since he is a fan of tequila, I also told him to get 2 bottles of the tequila for himself.

So, I got a chance to try Kirkland Bourbon.  Before I get into the taste, let me tell you that it’s packaged in a liter bottle and the price is approximately $22 per bottle, and that it is 7 years old and 103 proof.  Apparently, it is made by the Jim Beam Company.  When I first opened it and tasted it, there was an unpleasant acrid element to the flavor profile that made this an okay bourbon but not the major bargain it should be.  However, that acrid element faded over a couple of weeks, bringing it back up to the level it should be. 

Perhaps the most interesting thing about Kirkland Bourbon being made by Jim Beam is the following: while there were premium bourbons around before Jim Beam launched their Small Batch Bourbon collection 20 years ago, the introduction of the Small Batch Bourbon collection launched a revolution in the premium bourbon market.  The Small Batch Collection bourbons (Knob Creek, Basil Hayden, Baker’s, and Booker’s) were all distinct from the regular Jim Beam product – you couldn’t taste a Small Batch and recognize the link in taste profile.  With the Kirkland Bourbon, I think if you did a side-by-side tasting you would be able to recognize the taste link.

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Don’t spoil yourself – it gets expensive

Why do I write so much about value?  Why do I spend so much effort on finding quality whiskeys for prices as low as $20 per bottle on bourbons and $35 on scotches?

There are several answers to the questions above.  Number one, it’s kind of fun to see the looks on people’s faces when I tell them that the whiskey they are enjoying so much actually cost as little as it did (they usually guess much higher).  Number two, it helps me get much much more mileage out of my discretionay dollars – instead of buying one bottle for $80, I can get two or three bottles.  Number three, by buying more affordable bottles, I can take some of the money I save and buy something to keep in my collection for a future special occasion.  Reason number 4, however, it the big one.  If you only drink $80 whiskey, you get used to it, and a special occasion then requires something in the $120-200 range.  And if you are not careful, you’ll get dazzled by that special occasion bottle, and start drinking THAT regularly, and raise the bar into the stratosphere.  And that’s whiskey.  Wine is potentially far more expensive than whiskey, although that’s greatly dependant on how you party.

What prompted me to write this today?  On May 21st, I got together with a few friends,and after a little while the topic of discussion drifted to what whiskeys we drank over shabbos.  Three out of the four people in the conversation circle commented on how spoiled their shul is.  One of them turned to me and asked “when did whiskeys we used to consider good, like Tomintoul 16, become “feh”?  I can’t go back to that now.”  That comment worries me.  It worries me because from there it’s not that far to Glenlivet 18 being “feh”.  Let’s have a good time.  Let’s enjoy good whiskeys, wines, beers, tequilas, etc…  But let’s remain fiscally rational and responsible while we do so.

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Knob Creek and Knob Creek Single Barrel

Friday I finally saw Knob Creek Single Barrel Reserve in a store.  I’d been waiting to taste it since October, so I bought a bottle.  Regular Knob Creek is bottled at 100 proof.  Knob Creek SBR is bottled at 120 proof, which is pretty close to barrel strength.

I’ve always liked Knob Creek – for a period of time it was my favorite bourbon.  For all that Knob Creek is aged for only 9 years, it has an intensity of wood and vanilla flavors that indicate the 9 years of aging were aggressive ones (i.e. aging in portions of the warehouse that go through a broad range of temperature variation between seasons, such as the top level of an open-rick warehouse).  Without meaning to sound disparaging, Knob Creek Single Barrel Reserve is simply a more intense version of Knob Creek.  Perhaps that’s an over-simplification, because I actually like it.  What will be very interesting is the difference between batches – each barrel typically yields roughly 300 bottles, and each barrel will be slightly different, and so SBR will afford the opportunity to get a feel for some of the building blocks that ultimately combine to make Knob Creek.  I recommend giving it a try.

I know of only one place in Brooklyn where you can get Knob Creek Single Barrel Reserve, and that’s Schnapps on Avenue M and East 4th Street in Brooklyn.  Tell Avi you read about it on Raised Glass.

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Corner Creek Bourbon

A few years ago, my dad called me on a Sunday morning, telling me that the morning before he had gone to a kiddush and seen a bourbon he had never seen before.  The way he told the story, he initally passed by the bottle because it looked like a bottle of wine, but then another bourbon drinker, Joe, came to him and said “You gotta try this.”  They both really liked it, but neither could remember the name – just that it was “Something Creek.”  Both of them charged me with finding this bourbon for them.  For several months, I scoured liquor stores in Brooklyn and Manhattan.  I found Rowan’s Creek, but not only was that not the right bourbon, at $45 it was a disappointment.  Finally, I was up in Monsey at my in-laws for Shabbos, and on Saturday night I went over to The Grapevine, a store I’ve written about before, and found Corner Creek.  Lo and behold, that was the one, and only $20!  Fortunately, over the next few months, Corner Creek showed up in Brooklyn, making it easier to re-stock.

So what prompted me to write about this today? Today I went into Warehouse to see if they still have any Talisker 25, and to see if any new deals have come in.  I’m sure you can guess one of the things I found – Corner Creek for $19.99 plus tax, and the magnum for $39.99 (a bonus of 250 ml over 2 regular bottles).  If you can’t make it to Warehouse, but find Corner Creek at a local store for up to $25, I would still suggest you try it.

So what prompted me to

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Eagle Rare Single Barrel 10 year old

I can’t remember the first time I had this bourbon.  It’s not that it’s a pre-bourbon revolution classic like Old Weller, it’s just that it cropped up on the scene sometime in the past 10 years.  Regardless, I’m fairly certain that I picked up my first bottle at Warehouse and at the time most likely paid $20 for it.  Even at $30, this is a good bourbon, with a classic flavor profile.  So what specifically brought Eagle Rare to mind this evening?  Simple – I was at a kiddush Shabbos morning, and there was a bottle of Eagle Rare at the kiddush.  Even though I didn’t have any, I felt it was time to mention this one.  You can find this at plenty of locations in the New York Metro area.

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Whiskeyfest NY

Whiskeyfest NY takes place tonight, November 9, 2010, starting at 5:30 PM with VIP admission.  For the first time in 6 years, I am not going.  Due to the economic downturn, cashflow was tight, and by the time I was ready to buy my tickets, VIP tickets were gone.  And as much as the evening is a good time to try things I’ve nver tried before, discover new products and/or get a chance to try new releases from old favorites, I just couldn’t bring myself to buy tickets for the regular admission, because over the past several years the general admission at 6:30 has come to bear more and more resemblence to a cattle stampede.  I had taken to avoiding it by going up to the balcony level for a sandwich at 6:25.  Faced with the choice of going to Whiskeyfest for general admission or not going, I opted to not go, and so while I will have to expend more energy on alternate sources of product release information this year, I just couldn’t bring myself to have to enter in the main press of bodies.  Hopefully, next year, I’ll be in time to get VIP tickets.

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Moonshine should NOT cost $40 a bottle

Last Thursday, after having vascular surgery on my leg, I went out to lunch with my wife, and then we went wine shopping.  Because that’s the normal thing to do after ambulatory surgery, right?  Anyway, I spotted a bottle of Death’s Door unaged whiskey on the shelf, and decided to pick up a bottle in order to write a review here.  I’ve already reviewed the Platte Valley Corn Whiskey, which is aged only 3 years, so an unaged whiskey was on my mental list of topics to address.

Unfortunately, Death’s Door is an unremarkable entry in the world of unaged spirit.  The nose is reminiscent of certain elements of grappa (a grape-based unaged spirit), but it’s clearly a grain-based product.  The grain taste is there, along with a rubbing-alcohol like quality, but it lacks the interplay between grain, charred wood and wood elements that tends to make whiskey so fascinating.  Don’t get me wrong, it’s an interesting item to sip, but as an oddity.  But the $40 price tag is simply abusive.  I’ve had more appealing unaged spirit for less money, and with Platte Valley being just over $20 after shipping, I’m hard pressed to find a reason why anyone would buy this twice.  If you can’t find a less expensive unaged spirit, buy it once for the curiosity, but don’t buy it again unless it REALLY appeals to you.

A short while ago, there was a guest post on the “What Does John Know” blog on Malt Advocate’s website, in which the author complained that most craft whiskeys suck.  Part of the point made was that many craft whiskeys are too young.  I’m generally not a pursuer of craft whiskeys and have had good experiences both with the last bottle of unaged whiskey I bought and with things like Platte Valley.  After tasting Death’s Door, I have a greater understanding of that post.

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Basil Hayden

Basil Hayden is part of the Jim Beam Company’s Small Batch Bourbon Collection – a group of four bourbons developed under the eye of their Master Distiller Booker Noe, may he rest in peace.  As far as I am concerned, the Small Batch Bourbon Collection launched what I’ve previously referred to as the Bourbon Revolution – a sweeping reform of the bourbon industry that led to the introduction of a wide range of premium bourbons – a reform so deep and far reaching that even Four Roses ultimately introduced some good premium bourbons.  But Four Roses is a topic for another post – this is about Basil Hayden.

Basil Hayden is the mildest and mellowest of the four bourbons in the Small Batch Collection, the others being Knob Creek, Baker’s, and Booker’s.  To be honest, I’ve never bought much Basil Hayden, but in this case, that’s a ringing endorsement.  Let me explain the backward logic.  The first bottle of Basil Hayden I bought was for the weekend before my younger sister got married – about 14 years ago.  We had a leisurely celebratory dinner Friday night, and my father and I polished off half the bottle without even realizing how far we had gotten.  At the time we did this, I was a student in graduate school.  As much as I liked Basil Hayden, it drank a little too easily to make it a regular part of my liquor cabinet.  By the time I graduated and went to work, other premium bourbons had come to market and continued to do so, and so my attention was absorbed with trying new things.

When I first tried Basil Hayden, the going rate was about $35.  Today, I would expect/be willing to pay $40.  Fourteen years ago, it was a pricey bourbon.  Today, it’s not so pricey, although it’s not bargain rate bourbon either.  If you like bourbon, and haven’t tried this one, give it a try.

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Old Weller 107

This bourbon definitely falls into the class of “oldie but goodie.”  Old Weller has been around for as long as I can remember, which puts it back a good 25 years.  I’m not saying I was drinking it that long ago, just that I remember it being around.  It’s not that common an item to find in the NY metro area anymore, which is really a shame, because Old Weller is a good bourbon that was a good bourbon before the “Bourbon Revolution.”  As far as I am concerned, it’s still the best bourbon you’ll find for $20-22 per bottle.

For the Orthodox Jewish community, however, Old Weller is currently on a “do not buy” status by many of the larger kosher certifying agencies due to issues relating to Passover.

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